A beautiful walk (Day 30 - Portomarin to Palas de Rei (25 km))

 So nice again to stay in a house with an own room for me and Jesper, and the rest of the group had other rooms in the house. We all got up around 7 and Colin, Maritt and Anna had been so kind to have bought and prepared breakfast with lots of fruit, yogurt and other things. 

We ate, prepared for departure and hit the road. Jespers foot was good today and he could walk - so nice. We decided to take the complementary route that sometimes come as an option and had a nice walk uphill in the forest.

The day was an absolutely beautiful walk with nice weather and fantastic landscapes.









We arrived in Palas de Rei in the afternoon where we had booked an apartment for 10 people so the hole group could again stay the same place. As a nice gesture, the owner of the appartment had bought a big plate of cakes for us. I still have not got my appetite back and have had very limited food besides bananas and yogurt the last several days, and today I went to get pasta.



Unfortunately I could only eat a small part of it before feeling too full. I texted with my good friend Doctor Louise from Denmark and could learn that I suffer from constipation and that I need water, fibers and medicin. So that is what I want to get tomorrow, and hopefully can start to eat for real again soon. Still strange how much you can actually do without more food than a couple of bananas.

Starting the last 100 km (Day 29 - Sarria to Portomarin (22 km))

 Jesper and I had both gone to bed in good time and woke up about 6:30, ate breakfast in the kitchen, packaged our things, and hit the road 7:30. Sarria is the down from which most pilgrims start their journey towards Santiago. Reason is that it is the shortest path you have to walk to Santiago in order to become a “certified” pilgrim. And you need to collect at least two stamps in your pilgrims passport every day. You can collect stamps from all hotels, hostels, bars, restaurants and churches, so they are very easy to find.



And there were much more pilgrims than any other day we have experienced so far.  Many from outside Spain have arranged their camino through a travel agency and they just carry a daypack while their luggage transfer and accommodation is arranged by the agency. We talked to a danish girl that even traveled with a group and they had their own guide travelling with them to assist in case they needed it. Definitely a different camino experience than what we have had.


We stopped for a coffee already 200 m from the airb&b we had stayed in, and then started the walking.


It was hard to get started. Today was the first day to walk a full day with my backback after having been ill - and still only feeling at 80%. We walked for about 1:30 before talking the first break and a cold softdrink. Sun was winning over they heavy fog from the morning, and it was great with the break. Energy started to come back and the rest of the day was no problem to walk.


After some hours we came to an important milestone - the stone marking that there is only 100 km left - with 6 digits precision, impressive how they measure this…




Landscape today was absolutely amazing as you can see at the picture and video below.






We also met a group of cows



And for the first time in 4 days, I got a real meal - I got a pork and ham sandwich at our next break at about lunch time. I am so happy that the appetite is coming back - slowly.




We arrived at Portomarin about 14:30 and checked into our airb&b. Again we are staying in a “Mansion”, actual a real house with 4 bedrooms/10 beds, and we will be the same 9 tonight as yesterday.


After a nice hot shower, we went back into the town, found the square, and got a cold beer - and I got tapas that I actually ate. 




Afterwards we went home and all the rest of the group had arrived or arrived.



Walking a full day (Day 28 - Triacastela to Sarria(24 km))

 Again I woke up a bit better and ready for walking todays 17 km. Jesper unfortunately was not ready, he had overworked his angle, so today Jesper took the bus and I walked. I was a bit worried how I would handle the walk without having eating a real meal for 3 days, so Jesper took my bag in the bus and I walked with my daypack only. Start was hard, especially because we did not find a place to get breakfast in the city. Then we decided to take the scenic route, and that meant 24 km instead of 17 km. 





And first break first came after 10 km or about 2 hours. I was a bit dissy, so it was good to get a break, get a couple of coffees, a croissant and freshly pressed orange juice. 

I walked with Louis and Colin and they were so thoughtful of making sure I was OK. The break was in the only non-ghost town, Samos, that is known for its monestry


After a longer break where we also met Wes from US, and me and Wes walked together while we continued towards Sarria. 



We first found a stop after 21 km total, and we enjoyed a softdrink before doing the last 30 to the airb&b Pedro had book. 



And what a place. We are staying 9 people here and it is a 4 bedroom apartment in three levels. Again me and Jesper have our own room, and it is so nice, especially when I am not recovered yet.


It is 19:30 now and I am writing this text. I decided to stay back while the others are out for a drink and dinner. I successfully drank half a liter of yogurt and will drink some more soon, and without feeling ill, so I have strong hopes that the appetite will soon return. 

A bit better (Day 27 - Fonfria to Triacastela (9 km))

 First day that I start to feel better. Fever is gone, but so is appetite, this is the third day without real food - just forcing myself to eat fruit, drink a lot, and look for drinking yogurt. Just the thought of food gets me ill.

We started with breakfast at the hotel.



The walk today was just 9 km, and it went easy.




 We were the first in Triacastela and booked beds in a hostel for the rest of the group - in total 9 beds, so we nearly got the whole room for ourselves. 



Lunch was just next door - and again I was trying to get myself to eat. This time with a pasta salad, but after two pieces of pasta I left and got an ice cream instead.



I still felt ill and stayed mostly in bed, just for heading to late dinner where I got an icecream again. I hope the appetite soon will be back and the feeling of illness will disappear.


I am lying in bed and miss my family and have a very strong feeling of appreciation of everything life has given me - both before and during the camino - except of course for the illness I have had the last days.

Still ill (Day 26 - Villafranca to Fonfria (38 km))

 Night was much better and I woke up without fever - but still dizzy and with no appetite. I am a bit concerned about getting enough energy. I have replaced drinking water with drinking water with salt and minerals to make sure I don’t get out of those, and is only eating yogurt.

I am still not capable of walking and booked a hotel a bit further than the normal route, and that means a private room, which is really convenient when you are sick, and a walk tomorrow that is just 9 km. I hope I will be fresh enough to make it tomorrow - and that the appetite comes back.

I called for a taxi and drove to the hotel. 


This day had probably been one of the really nice days with beautiful trekking, mostly uphill in mountains. But I still felt so bad that there was no doubt that I could have walked.




The hotel was really nice, one of the best places until now. Completely newly built with all modern facilities and still with the same look as an old Spanish house. We think it was owned by the couple and their parents that all worked there. They were so sweet - absolutely no english, but google translate is just amazing. You just speak and it translate to the language of choice.

Jesper walked all the way to this great hotel, so he got at least 43 km, and he was very tired. We ordered dinner, and they served amazing food. I got grilled octapussy which I normally like, but after one bite I was nearly throwing up. 



The mother to the couple recognized that I did not like the food, so she offered to serve something else without cost. I explained that it was because I was ill, and instead I got a banana and a desert, some of the only things I have been eating.

Getting sick (Day 25 - Ponferrada to Villafranca (25 km))

 Night was terrible with high fever, and I was with fever, nausea and dizziness in the morning. I stayed in the airb&b until after noon and took a taxi to next town. Colins feets were hurting so much that he joined me in the taxi.

It was annoying to accept that I could not walk, but I felt sick enough to not have a choice. 

The taxi took me to the next  airb&b and I stayed in bed hole day. Jesper arrived later and went out with Colin.


Apparently I took no pictures this day.

A beautiful walk (Day 24 - Rabanal to Ponferrada (32 km))

 After a very hot and uncomfortable sleep we got up at 6 and packaged our stuff before hitting the road. Jesper got into the pilgrim spirit from the start with hostel and early up and walking. The walk today was lots uphill and downhill and reminded a lot about the first day at the Camino. Great landscapes and great walking. Lucky day for Jesper to start at.





We passed a camino magic place again where a singing and dancing lady was selling water mellons and soft drinks.




And look at these landscapes.









Near the end of todays route, we stopped at one more lovely town and sat next to the river and ate lunch and waited for the rest of the group.





I was starting to feel ill and lost appetite, and luckily Jesper had from home booked an airb&b for us.